Laminated 2x4 workbench

laminated 2x4 workbench

Yes you can absolutely do this. It's just more glue joints to do but it's not really that much more work than if you were using 2x4s. I'm going to laminate 2x4's for a Paul sellers workbench top and I'm curious how best to deal with the rounded corners. Build a simple, strong 2x4 workbench in just a few steps. It's inexpensive (less than $) and takes only about four hours to build. ANYDESK STRANGE CHARS REMOTE Laminated 2x4 workbench reviews comodo system cleaner


I then built a very simple sled for the router out of some scrap plywood. It is just a flat bridge which can traverse the span between the two runners without losing its shape due to the weight of the router. It has a channel down the centre so that the bit can pass through and trim the very top off of my slab. The slab itself was fairly flat when I began, it had a slight tilt in it from one particular length which seemed to be wider than the rest, closer to 94mm high rather than 90mm.

While I did have to rout the entire top, for the most part it was removing 2mm or so of material. For the high section though it did have to cut through over 6mm at times. There were very obvious lines, grooves and channels in the slab, it was very ugly. Because it was on an angle, when I got near the centre I instinctively leaned forward to reach easier. This meant I pressed down harder, and cut more material out which left the ugly channels.

To fix this, all I had to do was not press so hard! I set the router to cut the entire bench to the depth of the worst channel, and went over the whole thing again. This time I was careful to only ever slide the router back and forth, I never pressed down when moving it. This had a huge impact on the slab and cleaned it right up.

To finish it off, I grabbed my little hand plane and belt sander, and worked my way over the top, making it as smooth as i thought it should be. I would absolutely use the same method again, it worked a treat. I would probably even go so far as to lie the slab down on the floor instead of another table.

That would make it easier to reach across it. I would build a better sled though. Even being careful to slide the router back n forth, the sled had a little bit of give in it and flexed downward ever so slightly. All I needed to do was brace it a bit more, but for some reason I chose not to.

I figured that hardwood inlays in the pine would look great, and that they would also hide the ugly job I did with the joints. So instead of leaving them to be seen, I grabbed the router and some more scrap wood. This time I made a rectangle shape, which let the router cut a roughly mm by 10mm inlay over the centre of each joint.

It was a simple matter to cut and glue some hardwood into those areas after that. I would absolutely do this again. I think these inlays make my workbench. I love the look of them, not too much embellishment, not too little, they are to my eyes, perfect.

Cut a length of hardwood to size, glue and screw it into the end grain. Once the glue was dry, I removed a couple of screws, drilled out the holes and inserted some hardwood dowel in place. When that dowel dried, I repeated the process until all the screws had been replaced.

Finally a nice sanding to make sure everything was nice and smooth. I brushed on two generous coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish. You know how when you have been waiting for something for a long time, you have a picture in your mind of what it should look like? For me, my mind pictures a light orange tinge on a workbench with dark contrasting sections. And once this oil was applied what did I end up with? There are always improvements to be made but they will come in time.

Dogholes one day, maybe an end vice, definitely shelving underneath it. Question 8 months ago on Introduction. Quick question, do you have a cut list? It would just make life easier. I think I'm gonna use 4x4 instead of 2 2x4 for the legs and mortise that. I really like your inlays though. I think this will be my first project for my new garage.

Looks awesome. I say this because it looks very much like the bench I made just over a year ago. I built my workbench out of Southern Yellow Pine and Mahogany for the inlays and endcaps. I ripped down 2x12's as they are much easier to source than yellow pine 2x4's.

I also already had the mahogany and it made a great contrast. The yellow pine also gives it a lot of weight. Bad for the construction, but good for the workbench as it docent move when you have to man handle a project. I used only glue and dowels on mine.

I made the top in 3 sections. Running them through the plainer before carefully glueing the three sections together. Mario, Take it from someone that grew up with a full wood shop and who's skills were approaching patter making. You did a fine job. You came up with some pretty cleaver solutions for some complicated issues.

I would have taken the top to a commercial wood shop and have them run it through a Timesaver. A huge belt sander. A few words of encouragement. The next time you let the legs into the top; use blind tenons. The pegs are suppose to look like that. It appears that you had pegged the end plates to the top. I'm building a "live steam locomotive" and I have been looking for a flat bench top to rivet up its tender. This could be the answer. Btw the next time you need to rotate or lift something that heavy, get help.

I have a compression fraction L4 in my spine from lifting something heavy. It ain't fun. Question 3 years ago on Introduction. Great job!!! This exact type of workbench has been on my to-do list for too long now lol. Reply 5 years ago. I was tempted to go buy a much larger bit, but I can't imagine when I will use it again.

Worked out in the end though! Reply 3 years ago. Don't get me wrong. Could not have been fun. Painfully honest. Nice bench! You will enjoy this much more than if you had bought an expensive woodworking bench, I imagine.

The simple method you used to surface the bench top with the router is a great tip that I plan to use on another style of bench I am working on - thanks. If you're happy with the end result and you learnt something along the way - then I'd mark this one down as a success.

It would only need to be perfect if you were building it as a show piece to help sell more workbenches. This is a great read. I've been looking to make a work bench, and this exact build-up fits my style. You made it cheap, aesthetically pleasing, and solid. I think I'm going to add on twist on mine, and that is to see if I can make mine tilt down for space saving when not in use. Great post. I'll echo other comments about your adding all the 'oops' and 'oh wells' because it makes this project a 'must try' not necessary must do for all us amateurs.

My father-in-law started this way when he retired and after a lot of oops' which we never saw as flaws, he made a long list of our furniture from our boys captain beds to dressers and the custom corner desk I work from in my office. Modified 4 years, 11 months ago. Viewed 2k times. Improve this question. The gap looks pretty obvious. Was it evident when you dry-fit and clamped?

I admit I was rushing to clamp everything because I clamped up four assemblies like this at the same time, so it was 12 boards together with the same clamps which I was manipulating in a very small space. I should've checked more carefully and taken my time. Not enough clamp pressure! If you're doing a full panel like this in the future, clamp each subsection one at a time. Even if it means you're glueing up three or four separate times it's important for solid glue joints that will be dependable in the long term.

Oh and here, in case you don't realise you're going to need to separate the boards with the gaps saw them apart , clean off the glue, then re-glue. Plane the mating faces a bit to get rid of any very high points. You need a lot more clamps and a lot more pressure, maybe a clamp every 10 inches or so, alternating from above and below.

A lot of people will say to only glue up boards at a time but in my experience it is just as easy to glue up to 6 at a time. The glue is not going to set for around minutes. Anyway gluing those up 2 at a time wouldn't solve the problem anyway, the gap is large enough to fit a quarter in, it needs a lot more clamps. Add a comment. Sorted by: Reset to default.

Highest score default Date modified newest first Date created oldest first. I have several suggestions for gluing this type of slab. The glue does not spread itself. Always distribute it evenly before making contact between pieces. You can do this using a brush or a roller. I keep a rubber ink roller to distribute glue in large areas and then simply rinse it to clean off the glue for its next use.

Glue on both contact faces will insure maximum contact better than on only one face. Run the bottom of the boards through the jointer to insure the base of the slab is flat so that the pieces will set flat during and after gluing. Do not glue and clamp all the pieces at the same time.

These pieces are larger and it will take a lot of pressure and a lot of clamps to make full contact between all the pieces. For a 2x bench slab like this I would plane the contact faces of two boards, glue them together, let them set, plane the outside faces and then join the pairs together and then repeat for the 4 piece slabs until done. Use plenty of clamps 1 per foot would be nice. Once the slab is as wide as possible for your planer, runt the joined sections through the planer.

This will reduce the amount of hand planing needed to get the top surface flat and eliminate the ridges caused by the milled edges of the original 2xs. Improve this answer.

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